11-06-2014
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6 Perfumes Every French Woman Has Owned at Least Once in Her Life
Catherine Piercy
by CATHERINE PIERCY
Good skin, great hair, and an excess of insouciant charm are the hallmarks of la Parisienne—and while we’ve given plenty of thought to her rumpled, lived-in mane or her pharmacy skin-care secrets, this season we find ourselves wondering about her perfume. Fragrance, after all, may be personal, but it’s cultural to some extent, too. And a stroll through the French capital confirms that the art of perfume is still thriving here, with innovative new niche boutiques and storied houses from Guerlain to Annick Goutal nestled behind every glorious Haussmannian corner. Which got us thinking: Classically speaking, what are really the most French of the French perfumes? You know, the ones every Parisian under the age of 40 has had on her dressing table at least once in her life? In search of a professional opinion, we called up French nose Francis Kurkdjian, whose own self-titled jewel-box boutique on the Rue d’Alger, with its exquisitely made perfumes, is a mandatory stop on our seasonal Paris Fashion Week itinerary. Here, six classic perfumes that are quintessentially French.
1 / 6
Chanel No. 5 (1921)
“It’s the ultimate iconic fragrance that translates the ultimate idea of femininity. You have the memory of Marilyn Monroe, who wore it, and you have the house of Chanel—together, it’s something incredible. You may like it or you may not, because it was made almost 100 years ago and it’s particular—but you try it because you have to.”
2 / 6
Cacharel Anaïs Anaïs (1978)
“Nina Ricci’s L’Air du Temps used to be the first perfume that would be given to a young girl. But these days, I think it’s more accurate to say Cacharel’s Anaïs Anaïs. I can’t say it’s light—the aura is kind of big—but it’s a bright, sheer floral. And then you have the imagery of the campaign, which is these young women in groups, like a teenage band of girls. It’s something more innocent, the way things were 20 years ago. These days, you know, it’s more like Miley Cyrus.”
3 / 6
Guerlain Shalimar (1925)
“At some point, you want to try the perfume of your mother. Shalimar is iconic. It’s very, very French. You smell it in the theaters, you smell it at the opera. And it
eally looks like a bottle of perfume.”
4 / 6
Yves Saint Laurent Opium (1977)
“You have Yves Saint Laurent, you have fashion, and then you have Opium. The scent is a bit like a perfume done in another century, because the perfumes of that time did not yet have fruit notes, which we use a lot today. The idea of the fragrance itself isn’t as scandalous as it used to be, but it’s still something you identify in a certain way. There’s still something to the name.”
5 / 6
Kenzo FlowerbyKenzo (2000)
“An Oriental fragrance that's super big and more sheer than dark. You have a rosy, lipstick effect on top and something very powdery, almost like the smell of a compact powder. If you look at the best-selling fragrances in other countries, this lipstick-y smell is something you see in France and not really anywhere else. It’s classic.”
6 / 6
Chanel Coco Mademoiselle (2001)
“It’s another Chanel, yes, but when I think about Coco Mademoiselle, almost every woman I know has owned it at some point. It’s the idea of a French girl. Very contemporary, chic, elegant. It is a fruity, floral chypre perfume. Chypres are very French. They’re an abstract form of fragrance. They’re not aggressive. They’re something mysterious, because the accord itself really doesn’t smell like anything else you know.”
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